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Loaders, Excavation & Property MaintenanceSnow Removal Equipment Guide
When the snow piles up on a long rural lane, a shovel will not cut it. The right equipment, set up before the first storm, makes winter mornings a lot easier.
Key points
- Choose plow, blower or bucket based on your lane and your snow.
- Prepare the tractor for cold with the fluids the manual lists.
- Plan where snow will go before the storm.
- Never clear a jam while the PTO is running.
- Mark hazards, slow down and wear your seat belt.
What are your main snow removal options?
Snow can be moved by a plow, a blower or a bucket. Each has its place. A plow pushes snow aside, a blower throws it away from the lane, and a loader bucket scoops and stacks it.
The best choice depends on the length of your drive, the depth and type of snow, and the equipment you already have.
Start by walking your lane in summer and imagining where snow will drift. Open fields on the windward side collect more snow than a lane protected by trees. A 5-acre homestead with a short drive has very different needs than a ranch lane that crosses open pasture.
- Front plow on a truck, ATV or tractor
- Rear blade pulled backward for tight spaces
- Snow blower on the three-point hitch or front mount
- Front loader bucket for stacking and cleaning around buildings
- Skid steer with a snow pusher or blade
Which is better, plow or blower?
A plow works fast on light and moderate snow and is simple to maintain. It needs somewhere to push the snow. A blower moves snow well when banks get high or when you have no room to push. It is slower but can clear deep drifts and wet snow better in some cases.
A tractor with a rear blower is a common choice on farms because it uses the PTO. PTO speeds are commonly 540 and 1000 rpm, so confirm what the blower needs and what your tractor provides.
Plows are generally cheaper and simpler. Blowers cost more and have more moving parts, but they let you clear when banks are high. Ask a dealer about the size of tractor each unit needs, and check your PTO and hitch.
What should you check on your tractor for winter work?
Cold affects everything. Check the battery, glow plugs on diesels that have them, block heater if equipped, coolant protection, and fluids rated for cold. Use the fuel, oil and hydraulic fluid the manual specifies for winter temperatures.
Tires with proper tread and, where the manual allows, chains or ballast improve traction. A cab or an enclosure keeps the operator warmer and protects against blowing snow.
Keep a charged battery and a way to start in cold weather, and park where you can reach the tractor after a storm. A frozen-in tractor does no good.
How do you plan where to put the snow?
Think ahead. Choose spots that do not block drainage, gates, hydrants, mailboxes or sightlines at the road. Piles near fences can crush them when they settle. Avoid putting snow where meltwater will flood a barn or pen.
On a ranch, keep a feed path and water access open first. On a homestead, clear the path to the house and the woodpile.
Remember to leave gate openings clear so livestock can be fed and moved. Drifts that block a gate can strand animals or cause delays in an emergency.
How do you operate safely in winter?
Slow down. Snow hides ditches, stumps, rocks and lines. Walk the area in advance and mark hazards with stakes. Keep the ROPS up and the seat belt on, and avoid slopes when traction is poor. Never clear a blower jam with your hand while the engine runs or the PTO is engaged. Shut off the engine, wait for everything to stop, and use a stick or the cleanout tool.
Dress for the weather, take breaks, and tell someone where you are working. Cold stress and fatigue slow your thinking.
- Shut down fully before clearing any jam
- Mark hazards before the snow falls
- Watch for road traffic at driveway ends
- Keep children and pets away from running equipment
What upkeep should you do before and after the season?
Before winter, grease fittings, check shear pins or bolts on a blower, inspect the cutting edge on a plow and check hydraulic hoses. Keep spare shear bolts and a few tools in the cab. After winter, rinse off salt and grit, touch up paint where it is chipped and store implements dry.
Follow the manual for service intervals.
Replace a worn blower shear bolt only with the type the manual calls for. A stronger bolt can send damage into the gearbox instead of breaking where it should.
When should you hire a plow contractor?
If you travel often, live on a very long lane, or have limited equipment, a contractor may save time. Ask about response time, rates in writing, and whether they carry insurance. A written agreement protects both sides.
Ask for references and compare coverage before signing. Clear terms on storm response and damage to lawns or fences are worth getting in writing.
Sources and further reading
- National Ag Safety Database (NASD)
- NIOSH Agricultural Safety
- Penn State Extension
- University of Minnesota Extension
Organization homepages are linked so you can search them for current guidance on this topic.