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Loaders, Excavation & Property MaintenanceLand Clearing Equipment
Clearing land is easy to start and hard to finish. The equipment you choose depends on what is growing, what you want left behind and how you plan to deal with the debris.
Key points
- Decide the end use of the land before choosing machines.
- Check wetland, burning and timber rules with your county and state.
- Mulching saves soil but leaves stumps, pushing removes roots but creates piles.
- Use protective cabs, ROPS and seat belts, and keep fire gear on board.
- Hire out the heavy first pass if the timber is large.
What do you want the cleared land to become?
Start with the end use. Pasture, hay ground, an orchard block, a building pad and a fire break all call for different results. Pasture needs the stumps gone or cut low and a seedbed that can be planted. A building site needs stumps and roots removed and fill compacted properly.
Decide what stays too. Mature shade trees, wildlife strips and windbreaks may be worth keeping, and they also protect soil and streams.
Walk the property with a notebook and a phone camera before you call anyone. Note slopes, wet spots, rock outcrops, fence lines and the best place to stack debris. A written list makes quotes from contractors much easier to compare.
What permits and rules should you check first?
Clearing can trigger rules on wetlands, streams, steep slopes, protected species and burning. Rules vary by state and county. Check with your county, state forestry agency and your local USDA NRCS or conservation district before you start.
If you plan to sell timber, talk to a forester first. Call 811 before any digging or stump pulling, and look for old wells, septic lines and fences hidden in brush.
- Wetland and stream buffers
- Erosion and sediment control rules
- Open burning restrictions and permits
- Timber harvest notice requirements, where they exist
Which machines are used for clearing?
Each machine has strengths. A track-type dozer pushes trees and brush into piles but disturbs soil. An excavator with a thumb or grapple pulls stumps and stacks debris with more control. A skid steer or compact track loader with a mulching head chews brush and small trees. Large forestry mulchers handle larger stems.
A tractor with a brush cutter can handle saplings and brush, within the limits of the cutter and the manual. A front loader with a grapple moves piles.
Whatever you pick, ask about the ground. Heavy machines on soft or wet soil rut badly and can bog down, so many contractors prefer dry or frozen conditions. Timing the job to the weather protects both your machine and your soil.
How do you choose between mulching and pushing?
Mulching leaves ground cover in place and avoids piles to burn or haul, but it does not remove stumps and roots. Push and pile leaves the soil more bare and may remove roots, but you still have to deal with the piles. On steep or erodible slopes, mulching often protects soil better.
For a 5-acre homestead with scattered cedar and brush, a rented mulcher may do the job. For 30 acres of mature timber being turned into pasture, a contractor with a dozer and an excavator is more realistic.
On an orchard row replanting project, for example, you may want roots removed so new trees get a clean start, which points toward pulling and piling. Ask your extension office about disease risks from old roots.
What are the main safety risks?
Falling trees, flying debris, kickback, rollovers on rough ground and fire are the big ones. Use machines with the right protective cab or guarding, wear eye, ear and head protection, and keep bystanders far back. Fasten your seat belt and keep ROPS in place.
Dry brush and hot equipment mix poorly. Keep a fire extinguisher on the machine, clear debris from hot areas often, and check conditions before working in dry weather.
Take breaks, stay hydrated and avoid working alone. A radio or phone check-in with someone who knows where you are working is cheap insurance on remote ground.
How do you handle the debris?
Options include mulching in place, chipping, hauling away, stacking for firewood or wildlife cover, or burning where permitted. Burning rules vary and can change quickly, so check with your local fire authority before lighting anything. Do not burn treated wood or trash.
Windrows of debris can harbor rodents and become a fire hazard, so ask your forester or extension agent about options.
After clearing, bare soil needs cover quickly. Seed, mulch or erosion matting, as your conservation office advises, keeps rain from washing the site into the nearest ditch.
Should you hire a contractor?
Many owners find hiring out the first pass and doing the finish work themselves is the best mix. Ask for references, proof of insurance and a written scope that covers stumps, debris, erosion control and cleanup. Check your own policy for work done on your land.
Ask each bidder how they handle a surprise, like a buried well, a hidden pond or a stump field bigger than expected. A clear change-order process in writing avoids arguments later.
Sources and further reading
Organization homepages are linked so you can search them for current guidance on this topic.