Home / Guides / Implements & Attachments
Implements & AttachmentsSnow Plow Attachments for Tractors
Tractors move snow well because of weight and traction, but the right attachment and a few setup choices make the work faster and safer on a farm lane.
Key points
- Choose a front blade, pusher or rear blade based on lane length and yard layout.
- Use traction aids and ballast according to your manual.
- Mark culverts and edges before snow falls, and keep the blade just above gravel.
- Lower the blade and shut down before leaving the seat.
What kinds of snow plow attachments are there?
The common choices for tractors are a front-mounted blade on a loader or a dedicated mount, a snow pusher or box that fits a loader, and a rear blade that angles snow to the side. Each has strengths for different layouts.
A front blade pushes snow ahead and is quick for a long lane. A pusher box handles bigger piles in a farmyard. A rear blade works well when you back through narrow areas or drag snow off a lane, but you must be careful when you back up.
- Front blade: fast for long lanes
- Pusher box: good for yards and big areas
- Rear blade: works for drifts and for dragging snow
- Bucket: moves piles but is slower for plowing
How do you choose the right one for your place?
Think about the area you have to clear and where the snow will go. A long ranch lane with a hay barn at the end needs reliable traction and a blade that will not dig into the gravel. A homestead with a small yard can get by with a bucket and a rear blade.
Check that the plow fits your tractor's mounting system and weight. Ask the dealer about the manufacturer's recommended tractor sizes and any needed hydraulic hookups for angling. On a long ranch lane, a tractor with a front blade can usually clear it in a few passes, while the same job with a bucket takes much longer.
How do traction and ballast change snow work?
A tractor on ice needs traction more than power. Rear ballast, chains and the tire type you use all affect grip. Ask your tire dealer and check your manual before adding chains or tire ballast, since the right setup depends on the tractor.
Use a lower gear and drive slowly. Do not run fast into a drift. The blade can hit something hidden and throw you forward in the seat, so keep the seat belt on and ROPS up. Wheel weights and fluid-filled tires change how the tractor handles, so make changes only as the manual and your tire dealer allow.
How do you plow without damaging your lane?
Set the blade so it rides slightly above a gravel surface. Scraping the base pulls stone into the ditch. Shoes or skid plates on the blade help keep the edge off the ground. Mark the edges of the lane, culverts, hydrants and buried lines before the snow comes, since you will not see them later.
Stack snow where meltwater will drain away from the lane. A big pile at a low spot freezes into a block and floods the lane in spring.
What are the main safety concerns?
Visibility, ice and slopes make winter work risky. Keep your lights working and wear warm clothes you can move in. On slopes, go straight up and down instead of across, and avoid steep or icy ground that the manual warns about.
Never leave the seat with the blade raised. Lower it to the ground, set the brake and shut the engine off. A raised blade can drop, and a tractor can roll on ice. If you plow a public road entrance, check your state rules, since they vary. Local DOT offices can answer questions about plowing near public roads.
How do you care for the plow in winter?
Wipe and rinse off salt and slush, especially from pivots and hydraulic fittings, and grease the points the manual lists. Check the cutting edge and replace it when worn, and inspect pins and mounting hardware for looseness.
Check hoses for cracking in cold weather and have a qualified mechanic repair any leaks. In spring, rinse, touch up the paint and store the blade lowered on blocks.
Sources and further reading
Organization homepages are linked so you can search them for current guidance on this topic.