Post Driving Equipment

Driving posts by hand is slow and hard on shoulders. The right equipment gets a long fence line done in a fraction of the time, but it adds new hazards.

Key points

Choose post equipment by fence length, soil and what you already own.
Driving works best in softer soil, drilling in rocky ground.
Call 811 and plan corners and braces before starting.
Keep hands, face and bystanders away from the driver.
Hire a crew for long or difficult fence lines.

What types of post drivers are there?

Post driving equipment ranges from simple to heavy.

Choose by the length of fence, soil type and the equipment you already own.

A hand driver is cheap and fine for a few posts, but a long perimeter fence wears people out quickly. Think about hours, not just the price tag.

Manual hand driver: a heavy pipe sleeve you lift and drop
Tractor-mounted hydraulic driver on the three-point hitch
Skid steer or loader-mounted driver
Hydraulic hammer on an excavator
Auger to drill holes for set posts
Tractor loader with a post pounder attachment

Is driving or digging posts better?

Driven posts are often faster and make a tight fit in the soil. They work best in soft to medium soil without many rocks. Rocky ground can bend or split posts or stop the driver. In that case, drilling or digging holes and setting posts with tamped backfill may work better. On a ranch with long runs of high-tensile fence, a tractor-mounted driver that sets posts one after another can save days of work, while an orchard owner setting trellis posts in neat rows may prefer a drilled hole for exact spacing.

Ask neighbors or your extension office what practices work in your local soil.

Pilot holes or a drilled start can help in hard ground. If a post hits a rock and stops, do not force it. Pull it, move over and try again.

How do you plan a fence line?

Plan before you start. Walk the line, mark corners and gates, and check property boundaries. Call 811 before driving or drilling, since buried lines can lie along fence rows. Corner and brace posts do the most work, so they need to be set deeper or braced well, as fence guides recommend. Order more posts than you think you need, including extras for gates and braces, and check with the supplier about lengths and treatment suited to your soil and animals.

For a 30-acre pasture, working from the corners outward gives you a straight line to follow.

Check any local rules about boundary fences and shared fences with neighbors, including who pays and who maintains. An attorney or your county can explain how this works where you live.

How do you keep posts straight?

Pull a string or use a laser level to guide post placement. Start each post vertical and check often as you drive, adjusting before it sinks too deep. Keep driver rams centered on the post head. Mark depth on the post with tape or a line so all posts finish at the same height. Walk the finished line from one end and sight along the tops. Fixing a crooked post the same day is much easier than after the soil has settled around it.

A straight start matters, because crooked posts are hard to correct once they are in.

Wood posts vary by species and treatment, and treated wood needs handling per the label. Wear gloves and follow disposal rules for offcuts.

What safety rules apply to post drivers?

Heavy drivers can pinch or crush hands and fingers, and flying splinters or metal chips can injure eyes. Keep hands away from the driver and post head, wear eye and ear protection and gloves, and never hold a post by hand while the driver runs unless the manufacturer allows it. Use a fixed guide or a second person at a safe distance as the manual describes.

Mount drivers per the instructions, lower them to the ground before leaving the seat, and keep bystanders away. Check overhead lines when raising tall drivers.

Fatigue sets in on a long fence job. Stop for water and rest, and stop work if the light is poor or the ground is wet and slick.

How do you maintain post-driving equipment?

Grease slides and pivots, check hydraulic hoses and fittings, and inspect the hammer, guide and mounting pins for wear or cracks. Use the fluids the manufacturer specifies, and never check for hydraulic leaks with your hands. Replace worn guide bushings and hammer faces as the manual says, since a worn guide lets the post wander and puts side loads on the hammer.

Keep the machine clean and store it dry.

Keep a log of hours and repairs on the driver, since hammer drivers take a beating and wear quickly.

When is it smarter to hire a fencing crew?

Long runs, rocky soil or high-tensile and specialty fences may be done faster and better by a crew with the right equipment. Ask for references, a written estimate and proof of insurance. If livestock containment is critical, ask about their experience with your animals. Also ask the crew about gates, corner assemblies and how they handle wet ground, since those details decide how long the fence lasts.

A fence that holds cattle is built differently than one that holds sheep or horses. Ask your extension agent or an experienced neighbor what design suits your animals.

When to get help: Ask your dealer to match drivers to your tractor or loader, use a qualified shop for hydraulic repairs, and talk to your extension office about fence design for your livestock and soil. Check property lines with a surveyor if boundaries are unclear.

Sources and further reading

Organization homepages are linked so you can search them for current guidance on this topic.

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