Mower Conditioner Buying Guide

A mower conditioner is the first machine in the hay chain, and a poor match for your tractor or your fields will slow every step that follows. Here is how to size one up before you spend money.

Key points

Match cutterbar style and conditioning type to your crop and your repair skills.
Confirm PTO speed, hitch type and power need with the manufacturer, not by guesswork.
Inspect shields, driveline, gearbox oil and cutterbar wear on any used machine.
Check local parts and service support before you buy.
Never remove or bypass guards to save time.

What does a mower conditioner actually do?

A mower conditioner cuts standing forage and then crimps or crushes the stems as the crop passes through the machine. The point of conditioning is to break the waxy skin on the stem so moisture can escape faster. Leaves usually dry quicker than stems, and without conditioning the stems can hold the whole windrow back.

Not every hay field needs one. A grass hay field with thick stems, or alfalfa and clover that you want dry before rain, gets the most benefit. If you only cut a few acres of lawn-type pasture for a couple of round bales, a plain mower may be all you need.

Which cutterbar style should you choose?

Most buyers end up choosing between a disc cutterbar and a sickle cutterbar. Disc machines turn faster, tend to handle heavy and lodged crop better, and are common on newer equipment. Sickle machines are simpler, easier to repair in a home shop, and often cost less to find used, but they can plug in tangled crop if the knives are dull.

Talk to neighbors who cut the same kind of forage you do. A machine that works well in a clean, thin stand may struggle in a lush second cutting.

Price is only part of the cost of a mower conditioner. Think about knives or blades, conditioning rolls, belts and gearbox work over the years you plan to own it. Ask the dealer what parts are stocked locally versus ordered, and ask neighbors what broke on theirs.

Disc: faster ground speed capability, more parts to service, blades are replaceable
Sickle: simpler design, sections and guards wear and need regular attention
Ask local dealers which style they can actually service near you

Roller or flail: how should the crop be conditioned?

Roller conditioners squeeze the crop between two rolls, usually rubber or steel. They are gentle on leaves and a good fit for legumes where leaf loss costs you feed value. Flail or tine conditioners rake and scuff the stems, which suits grass and mixed stands, but can strip more leaf from tender alfalfa.

Look at how roll spacing and pressure are adjusted. Check your operator's manual for how the setting is made on the model you are considering, and make sure the adjustment is something you can reach and change without special tools.

How do you match a mower conditioner to your tractor?

Start with the hitch and PTO. Many mower conditioners are pulled with a drawbar or a three-point hitch, and the driveline usually runs at 540 or 1000 rpm. Confirm that the machine's PTO speed matches what your tractor offers, and ask the seller for the power requirement listed by the maker. Do not guess from the cutting width alone.

Think about weight and stability, too. A wide pull-type machine behind a small tractor can push the tractor on a slope or in turns. Check the manual for your tractor's drawbar and hitch limits, and talk to the dealer about your terrain before you decide on width.

What should you inspect on a used mower conditioner?

Walk the machine with the PTO stopped, the engine off and the key out. Look for cracked frames, welds that have been repaired badly, bent hitch parts and worn pivots. Turn the cutterbar and rolls by hand where the design allows and listen and feel for rough bearings.

Ask for the maintenance history. A seller who greased the machine on schedule and stored it under cover can usually tell you so. A seller who cannot say anything about how it was kept is giving you information as well.

Bring a flashlight and a straightedge when you look at a used machine. A bent frame or a twisted hitch shows up when you sight down the machine from behind, and it is far cheaper to spot it in the seller's yard than in your field.

Shields and guards present and intact, not removed or wired up
Driveline safety shield turns freely and is not cracked
Blades, knives or sections: how worn, and are replacements easy to get
Gearbox and cutterbar oil level and color, no obvious leaks
Roll or flail wear, and whether conditioning pressure can still be set
Tires or wheels, if pull-type, and any hydraulic hose cracking

When is it worth paying a dealer to look first?

If you are spending real money on a newer machine, ask the dealer service department what common wear items cost and how long parts take to arrive. Parts availability during first cutting is worth more than a small discount at purchase.

For high-pressure hydraulics or gearbox problems on a used machine you are unsure about, pay a qualified mechanic for an inspection before buying. It is a small cost compared with discovering a failed gearbox in the middle of a good weather window.

When to get help: Have your dealer service department or an independent mechanic inspect a used machine's gearbox, driveline and hydraulics before purchase, and ask your county extension office which style suits your forage. If you finance the purchase, talk with your lender about terms.

Sources and further reading

Organization homepages are linked so you can search them for current guidance on this topic.

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