Hay Feeding Equipment

How you put hay in front of animals matters as much as how you made it. The right feeding equipment cuts waste, saves labor and keeps animals safer.

Key points

Pick feeders by animal type, bale type and your loader.
Feeders cut waste when they hold hay off the ground and are moved around.
Check for gaps and sharp points that could trap animals.
Place feeders on firm, well-drained ground.
Remove net wrap and twine before feeding.

What equipment can you use to feed hay?

Common tools include ring or cone feeders for round bales, cradle or hay rack feeders, bale unrollers, bale processors, hay bunks, small square hay racks and nets or slow feeders. A loader or a spear or grapple moves bales to the feeder.

Which you pick depends on animal type, number of animals, bale type, and the tractor and loader you own.

A five-acre horse place may only need a rack and a slow feeder, while a cattle ranch feeds many bales a week and needs equipment that moves quickly. Match the tool to the work you actually do.

How do you choose between feeders?

Think about the animals first. Cattle on pasture do well with ring feeders or unrolling bales. Horses and small stock often need a feeder that limits waste and prevents hooves or horns from getting caught. Sheep and goats need low, safe rack designs.

Next consider labor. A feeder that holds a full bale lets you feed less often, while an unroller can feed several animals in a line.

Ask neighbors who run similar animals what they would buy again and what they regret. A feeder looks fine in a catalog and shows its problems after one wet winter.

Ring or cone feeders: round bales for cattle or horses
Cradle feeders: lower waste, fits large animals
Hay bunks: controlled feeding, needs more labor
Bale unrollers: spreads hay along a line
Slow feeders and nets: reduce waste, check for entanglement risk

How can you reduce waste?

Animals waste hay when it is trampled, soiled or pulled out and left. Feeders, putting out only what they will eat in a set time and keeping feeding sites dry all cut waste. Moving feeders reduces mud build-up in one spot.

Ask your extension office for local numbers on waste differences between feeding methods. Weather and animal numbers matter, and no single method is best everywhere.

Moving the feeding site also helps with mud, which is a safety issue for animals and for tractors. A tractor that gets stuck at feeding time is a long, cold day.

What does safe feeder design look like?

Look for smooth edges, no sharp points, no gaps where heads or legs can get stuck and sturdy construction that will not tip. Feeders designed for cattle can be dangerous for horses or small animals if heads or hooves fit through openings.

Check feeders often for broken welds, bent bars and sharp metal. Fix or retire damaged feeders right away.

Never leave loose wire, baling twine or broken boards inside a feeder. Animals can get caught or swallow them.

Where should you place feeders?

Place feeders on well-drained, firm ground. Avoid low spots, creek banks and places that turn into mud. Rotate sites to spread manure and protect soil. Keep feeders away from fences where animals can get hurt.

If you use a loader, place feeders so you can drive in and out safely without crowding the herd. Watch for overhead power lines when lifting bales.

Plan a feeding route that keeps you from backing up near animals. A clear path in and a clear path out is safer than a tight turn in a crowded lot.

How should you handle bales while feeding?

Move bales with a loader rated for the weight, with the bale carried low. Take your time near animals, because cattle can crowd close and be unpredictable. Never let people walk under a raised bale.

Remove net wrap or twine before feeding, and dispose of it properly. Animals can swallow bits of plastic, which can make them sick.

Keep the cab clean and check your mirrors. In winter, snow and ice make loaders harder to control, so go slower than you think you need to.

Is it worth building your own feeder?

Many people build feeders in the farm shop. This can save money, but design matters. Poorly built feeders can injure animals or tip under heavy bales. Use sound materials and sound welds, and consider asking a qualified welder to check structural work.

For a small herd or flock, a purchased feeder with a good safety record may be better value than a homemade one. Compare designs and ask other owners.

Whatever you build or buy, check it every few weeks through the season, because animals are hard on equipment and small damage grows fast.

When to get help: Ask your extension office about feeder choices and waste for your animals, and your veterinarian if animals show injuries or illness. A qualified welder should check any structural work on a homemade feeder.

Sources and further reading

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